2.26.2009

Mont Ste Victoire

The Croix de Provence is the speck on the bluff to the right of the highest one to the left.
View from the top!

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2.23.2009

Zola & Cézanne

After the whirlwind of activity last weekend in Nice and Monaco, I decided to take it easy this weekend. It's not a very hard thing to convince myself to do, especially when I know I'll be going to Spain in just a few days for my first vacation this term! I will be in Madrid from Saturday to Monday, at which point I'm off to Sevilla from Monday to Wednesday night. I'm doing this largely on my own, though I'll see my friend Alicia in Sevilla and I'm hoping to spend Saturday in Madrid with two girls from my program whose plans overlap with mine. I'm a bit apprehensive, but if everything goes off without a hitch--read: I come back with all my possessions and documents, I fudge my way through Spanish enough to not get in trouble, and I maybe get a little sun in the face--I will be happy.

As for this weekend, it was filled with two people, who were natives of Aix!: Emile Zola and Paul Cézanne. They grew up here and were best friends. Until Zola wrote a book called L'oeuvre that depicted a painter in an unfavorable light. Cézanne was not pleased.

I've been working on reading Zola's Germinal in the original French almost since I got to Aix, and I finally finished today! It was a challenge. Zola, like most of the grands écrivains in French, uses the passé simple a lot (simple past), a literary tense that replaces the past tense used in spoken and most modern written French. And then there is the usual difficulty with elevated vocabulary. The biggest temptation was to look up every word I didn't know in a dictionary, but I knew it would be better to just read for the plot and the characters. I'm so glad I got through it. And I hope to read it again so I can understand more of the nuances next time.

Germinal is about mining in France in the 19th century when political awareness and activism was rising in the working class. The miners go on strike under the leadership of a young miner who has educated himself on new socialist ideas, but it's only the very beginning of organized labor, and the miners are ill-prepared for a two and a half month strike. Zola describes in detail the horrible conditions in the mines and the corons, the slums that the Company has set up for the mining families. And once the strike is under way, the families are constantly battling starvation waiting for the bourgeois management to accept the workers' demands. I won't ruin the end for you, but there are two movies of it and the translation in English. I've heard good things about both of the movies; one is from the 60s and the other is from the 80s or 90s, I think.

I don't think there is a book quite like this about the US, probably because America didn't exactly have bourgeois and wasn't as influenced by socialist ideas. At least, that's what most would like to think, since socialism=communism (duh, right?), the most terrifying of all political systems ever. But also, la grève, the strike, is a central part of political expression and activism in France. It is a rite of passage. Unions are incredibly strong here. When several of them get together on one issue, they can literally stop daily life even for weeks, by setting up boycotts or blocking roads with tractor-trailors.

All the French know the songs, slogans, and chants of la grève, even if they pretend to make fun of themselves for this common obsession of the strike. It doesn't seem to matter what the object of the grève is, there will be a song to fit it and a crowd who will sing it. It's an entirely different viewpoint from the US, where strikes are seen as last resorts and often burdens on the rest of the community. My junior year of high school my teachers went on strike for a month, and there were many people who criticized the teachers for abandoning their jobs as educators. Even if certain people among the French don't agree with the reasons behind a strike, I have never heard anyone question an individual's morals or character for participating in one. It would be just as surprising as someone complaining about a smoker in a restaurant!

Now, as for Cézanne, I did something this weekend I've been wanting to do since I got here: I hiked Mont Saint Victoire. This is the mountain that Cézanne painted, I think, 28 times. Or something like that. I had seen several of these paintings at the Met in NYC and the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, and now I kind of want to go back to see what I think, having seen it in person.

I went with three girls from my program, Allison, Sherie, and Jill. Four was a perfect number, very manageable. We took the short bus ride to the base of the mountain and started on a trail that was marked 'moyen', or mid-level in difficulty. It was a good day for hiking, not too warm, kind of brisk, and sunny most of the time. Eventually we came to a fork in the trail and we decided to take the more difficult path that would lead more directly to our target, the Croix de Provence, at the top of the mountain. Well, it certainly was difficult. I found myself thanking my friend Claudia for taking me once to the rock-climbing wall at Pitt. We were probably not wearing the right footwear for this kind of trail, but we made it, even after one rather dangerous detour from the path in search of pesky trailmarkers. And we got a huge payoff for our hard work of almost 4 hours climbing, not hiking (Allison was right to insist on the distinction in her blog, which again I'm referencing), to the Cross of Provence. The cross itself wasn't incredibly unique, but the views were amazing. Three-hundred-sixty degrees of rolling hills and mountains, a river, little towns peaking out from valleys. It was impressive, to say the least.

I still can't get over how different the geography (or topography? I'm losing my sense of the precision of certain words in English) is here, and the natural life. The mountain seemed to jut out of the land, not at all like the mountains I've seen before. The huge cliffs are streaked with this glowing orange that is the same color as the bright clay soil at the foot of the mountain. And the slopes (or dropoffs, really) are covered with beautiful conifers that are all over Cézanne's paintings, perfectly geometric bark and just the right amount of branches in the top third of the trunk. The brush is interesting too. Even though most leaves haven't come out yet, there's wild holly and these twiggy plants with muted purple-red branches that make the mountainside look like a patchwork of purples and greens and browns.

Needless to say, it was a great day. And tiring, after about 6 hours of hiking. This mountain is not for the faint-hearted or the out of shape. I count myself lucky to have only been slightly sore the next morning.

Pictures are to come!
A plus,
Maggie B.

2.18.2009

Faux amis

I am going to shamelessly steal my friend Allison's idea for her blog and share some 'faux amis' or false cognates. Some of them are interesting, some of them are just surprising, and some of them are funny and incredibly embarassing if confused.


la promiscuité ≠ sexual promiscuity
= proximity, especially unwanted

plein(e) ≠ full, as in not hungry
= pregnant, usually referring to an animal

préservatif ≠ preservative, as in food
= condom

blesser ≠ to bless, benedict
= to harm

décevoir ≠ to deceive
= to disappoint

réaliser ≠ to realize, that you forgot something for example
= to achieve or to direct a film

séculaire ≠ secular, nonreligious
= sensitive

surnom ≠ surname or last name
= nickname

avertissement ≠ advertisement
= a warning or caution

bigot(e) ≠ intolerant, narrow-minded
= over-devout

candide ≠ open, frank, sincere
= naïve, ingenuous

draguer ≠ to pull along
= to flirt, to hit on

entrée ≠ the main course
= the appetizer

Enjoy!
Maggie B.

2.16.2009

Un weekend magnifique!

Salut tout le monde !
Long time, no entry. Classes have been going well, keeping me busy. And things are good with Marie-Do. Tonight she’s coming back from Corsica, where she went with her brother for a family thing. So I’m on my own. But that’s okay, I have a lot to write about (you’ve been forewarned).

This weekend was the first Abroadco excursion, besides the daytrip to Marseille the first weekend, and we went to Nice, Monaco, and a small village called Eze. It was an amazing trip, and I already want to go back to Nice. I’m thinking maybe I can convince my mom and my aunt Missy to go when they visit. Shouldn’t be too hard, right? Beaches, sun, good food.

Anyway, we met early Saturday morning to get on our charter bus. Also on the bus was the CEA group. CEA is another study abroad company that has a group of American students here. Actually, two of the Abroadco girls live with the CEA program director, Karen, and the two directors know each other very well. It was interesting to have the two groups there. CEA has about 25 kids and there’s definitely a different dynamic, besides the difference in size. But more on that later.

The drive to Nice was beautiful, especially after we passed Cannes, where we started seeing the Mediterranean and the Alps further inland. The geography here is really amazing, I’ve never seen anything like it. It’s very hilly, or I guess mountainous, but not like the Adirondacks or the Alps I saw in Switzerland. It’s all sandy-colored and very jagged. I guess you might call them bluffs. And I don’t even know how to describe the trees. I’m sorry, usually I’m good at describing nature-y stuff, but it just shows how utterly new this environment is for me.

When we got to Nice, we were dropped off at the Promenade des Anglais, the walkway that runs parallel to the shore, about 20-40 yards back from the water. One of the CEA directors pointed out where Angelina Jolie gave birth to her twins. I still don’t approve of her, especially since she and Brad Pitt chose these really pretentious French middle names for the twins. Just because you own an estate in the French countryside….

Well, then Pamela led us to the “vieux marché” or the old flower market. Now, it did happen to be Valentine’s Day, but I didn’t really notice many arrangements specifically for the holiday, maybe more roses than usual. But the market was huge and had all kinds of vendors, not just flower stalls. There were spices, savon de Marseille (a very famous soap), fruits and veggies, cheese, baked goods, and wonderful marzipan creations of everything from cherries to crocodiles. It was incredible. That and, even more than Aix, Nice has very colorful buildings. I’m no art major (I think my parents are thankful for that, at least), but from what I learned last year in Nantes about the French impressionists and now seeing what they painted, it’s no wonder you see such clear, vibrant colors. Especially the yellows and oranges and blues. The typical provençal building is a warm yellow or orange with bright blue shutters and the hacienda-style orange, tiled roof. I love it! It makes everything seem so much happier.

After thoroughly exploring the marché with my friends Annie (just spent 4 months in Uganda for the first half of her gap year before Princeton) and Allison (almost graduated history major at Auburn) and buying a picnic lunch, I walked up to the top of a hill that had these wonderful views of the city. We ate and then waited for the sun to peak out from the temporary cloud cover before taking many, many pictures.

Next was the Bataille des Fleurs, the Battle of the Flowers, for which Pam had given us tickets. Every year Nice has this parade on the main drag next to the Promenade des Anglais, and it’s to celebrate spring, specifically the blooming of the mimosa tree which is said to usher in the season. Apparently there is a mimosa flower in the American South as well, but it’s very different. The Mediterranean mimosa is yellow and has very small, fluffy, almost Seussian blossoms. They have a very sweet smell as well. So anyway, during the Bataille des Fleurs, the costumed actors on the floats throw sprigs of mimosa, and eventually the other flowers that absolutely cover the floats, to the crowds. This year’s them was “Masquerade”, so the floats and the costumes revolved around masks, deceit, trickery, et cetera. It was a great experience, I couldn’t believe the floats and the costumes. There was a balloon suspending this incredible trapeze artist who was doing tricks while being pulled along the parade route over the crowds. Also, there was a huge mechanical dragon that swung its head and tail and blew smoke. I took about 200 pictures of it all.

We left Nice after the Bataille and a walk along the beach and arrived in Monaco around 6pm, so it was already pretty dark and a bit brisk. By the time we went to the open-air restaurant for dinner (funded by Abroadco, thank you), it was positively chilly. But we were right next to the port, so we could see all the yachts and fancy sailboats. Dinner was great, if a bit slow; we didn’t leave until after 11:30pm. Appetizers were tapas-like, and the entrée was chicken with a creamy mustard and caper sauce and roasted potatoes. Dessert was a kind of apple crumble and chocolate fondant combination with whipped cream.

It was really enjoyable, but we were there with CEA, and wine was included in what the two programs had paid for. So it was really then where it was clear how the two groups differed. In our smaller group there isn’t an anti-party person, but there is absolutely no pressure to go out. Maybe there isn’t any pressure within the CEA group either, but they were rather fish-like when provided with complimentary wine. That’s okay, but I definitely did not appreciate it when they decided to start singing the national anthem. Luckily, no one else was at the restaurant but the 45 of us. I guess I’m just glad I’m with Abroadco, not just because of the different attitude towards socializing but also the dynamic in the smaller group.

After dinner, a few Abroadco girls went to the American bar, but the rest of us went into the entry room in the Casino, which was gorgeous. Two of the girls went into the blackjack room and said later it was really cool to watch. Pamela also snuck us in to the Hotel de Paris, this gorgeous hotel. There were only about seven of us and we were decently dressed from dinner, so we managed to look nonchalant enough to wander around for a couple minutes before being asked if we were staying there. Then it was back to the hotel, since I was very cold and exhausted.

The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, we went up to ‘the rock’ where the royal palace and the cathedral are. There were gorgeous views and I don’t even want to know how expensive it is to rent an apartment up there. Annie and I went to the Museum of Oceanography, well really just the aquarium part. Because we did that, we didn’t have time to see the exotic gardens before going to see the changing of the guard at the place. But, I must say it was still worth it. They had an impressive variety of species and I actually got some decent pictures.

The changing of the guard was interesting. The Grimaldi family has been ruling for the last 700 years, which isn’t that long in comparison with ruling families from centuries ago, but today it’s bizarre to think that a 700 year-old monarchy is still kicking.

On the way back from Monaco, we stopped in the village of Eze, where we visited the parfumerie Galimard. We took a tour and then had a little lesson on how to try out perfume. And they actually had perfume, as opposed to eau de toilette or eau de parfum, and it was cheap! I bought a 30mL bottle for 33€. Then my friend Danni (goes to Chatham, just 10 minutes down the road from Pitt!) and I walked up the hill to the town on top of the hill. It was a gorgeous view, the houses looked like they were about to fall off the mountainsides into the Mediterranean.

All in all, great weekend! Already I’m thinking of ways I can get back to Nice. That was really my favorite part, and not just the Bataille des Fleurs either. The whole place was colorful and interesting. Also, full of older people…but whatever. That’s it for now (as if it wasn’t plenty). Here are the links for photo albums. There are four albums up on Facebook, but I’m still working on getting the second half of the pics up on my Google web albums, so check it later if you don’t see the Monaco and Eze albums.

Facebook links (for anyone):
Nice 1
Nice 2
Monaco 1
Monaco 2/Eze

Web albums here.

A bientôt!
Maggie B.

2.06.2009

Photos!

Salut!
I don't really have anything new to share, just thought I'd put up some pics for the non-Facebook users (stay strong, don't let anyone talk you into it). If you want to see more pics:
You can go to this link, which should be the public, non-user exclusive Facebook page for the Marseille album. Please let me know if it works!
Or you can go to my Google Web Albums, which I know works for anyone.

I hope everyone's having a calm winter (or summer, for the Aussies).
A plus tard,
Maggie B.

 
 
 
 
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